Collars are often chosen as a fashion statement but these choices should change with your requirements for your dog’s training. When you train obedience you should choose one collar; if you are training your dog in protection, you might need another type. This all evolves as your dog becomes more off-lead responsible.
Leather Collars: Leather collars are soft and come in a flat or round shape. They tend to be gentle on your dog’s neck, and in general the wider the collar (one and a half to two inches), the more comfortable the fit. The round leather collar is more likely to produce hacking behaviors if your dog forges.
Some leather collars are sold for training German shepherd dogs, rottweilers, and other competition protection breeds. They are two inches wide and made for comfort during agitation and bite training.
Chain Collars: Chain collars are usually of the slip-choker or pinch-collar variety. These collars are used strictly for training, so once trained, dogs should be outfitted with more comfortable equipment. The chain slip collar can be a very effective tool when used correctly. If you have one of these on your dog, and he is choking at the end of the leash, take it off. Knowledge of correct usage is essential or the collar is merely abusive. The device is meant to be worn loose on your dog and used in conjunction to voice and body postures. Learning how to use it takes practice and usually professional assistance.
Pinch Collars: The pinch or prong collar looks barbaric but is a very useful tool when used correctly, and it offers much less potential for injury than the slip collar. The pinch collar is fitted to the neck size for effectiveness. This collar should be used with the aid of a professional in that the discomfort offered by this collar can result in an aggressive overreaction by a dog. But it is a great tool for the right handler and the right dog.
Nylon Collars: As with the nylon leashes, these collars are also very strong. They are great house collars. You can hang your dog’s vaccination and identification tags off of them. They are durable, affordable, and available in many colors.
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Monitors: When first training your dog to be responsible in your home, you want to be aware the moment an inappropriate behavior occurs because corrections long after the fact are worthless. As a behavior is occurring is the time you can teach your dog right from wrong. There are commercially manufactured motion sensitive devices that blurt out a sound to let you know that Rover is in the wrong place and there are even seen elaborate camera systems designed to “spy” on mischievous pets. If your dog is sneaking up onto counters, tables, and furniture, these sensor devices might be worthwhile.
Audible: There are a wide variety of audible remote devices on the market. Some have ultrasonic frequencies that are inaudible to humans, while others are detectable by the human ear. There are audible hand-held units that are pressed by you for off-leash control, and others that emit the sound when motion sensors are remotely triggered by your dog.
The distance that each unit will be effective should be taken into account. Ultrasonic units are most effective at the shortest distance and lose efficacy as distance increases. Keep in mind that the units that squelch audible sounds will scare you too when you press the button. A friend of mine used to use boat horns to get focus from dogs that were running away from him during dog shows. The problem was that he ended up getting focus from everyone within a one-mile radius.
Physical: Physical correction tools are amazingly effective. They include electrically charged mats, mousetrap-type devices, and horrifically odoriferous products such as ammonia or pepper. Setups include a wide variety of inventive procedures as well. For example, place a small bit of bread on your counter top and run a few strips of double-sided carpet tape along the edge. When your dog jumps up onto the counter and gets his feet stuck he will not be quick to return to the counter-top.
Some dog breeds are less tactile and sensitive and may require a stronger correction. Electric mats offer a few levels of stimulation, and when your dog puts his feet on it, it will sting. Remember, to the dog you should not appear involved in this. T he sting came as a result of your dog’s behavior, which is unrelated to you. Say nothing or if anything console the dog when it comes to you for safety. You remain safe to your dog as the counter begins to appear dangerous.
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Body harnesses: When your dog is using a body harness, it suggests to the dog that he should pull, because opposition reflexes result in strong forging behaviors. Sled dogs, seeing eye dogs, carting dogs, and tracking dogs all wear harnesses. Dogs with these jobs of pulling ahead of their handlers should wear harnesses. If you enjoy being pulled, then be my guest and allow your dog to wear a harness. If you want your dog near you on a walk, then do not use a harness.
New body harnesses have been produced to close on the body of the dog behind the forelegs producing some discomfort when the dog pulls on the lead. They appear somewhat effective, but I am skeptical of their long term safety and efficacy. I also feel that this harness sends a mixed signal to the dog simply in its design. Pulling promotes pulling. Punishment to the dog via body tension is inappropriate after stimulating the dog to pull. Dogs surely can learn how to appropriately suppress the discomfort by not pulling on the lead, yet I am certain that there are easier ways to teach a dog not to forge on the leash.
Car containment: Body harnesses as car containment devices are excellent and can be purchased commercially. Most dog owners feel that for a dog’s safety in a moving motor vehicle, some type of containment is best. Alternatives are crates, dividers, or affixed leads to a flat collar. If your dog rides free in the car, be careful.
Do not allow your dog to hang halfway out of the windows. It is bad for his eyes. Please do not allow your dog to sit in your lap while you drive, no matter how small the dog. It can be dangerous for both of you.
Head halters: Head halters originated in England and have found a new home in the United States. These gentle and very effective bridles are super for large dogs who have small handlers. We know that the dog’s head is the weakest part of its body. Why not use this information wisely, and use a device that humanely offers you excellent control, given that most large animals are controlled by their heads. Imagine trying to walk a horse on a leash by the neck; you’d be dragged till you perish. Dog trainers have successfully trained countless numbers of dogs using this tool.
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