Puppy Train Guide

When your puppy has learned some of the basic training needs, you can practice by turning it all into fun. For example, put the puppy in a Sit-Stay, back off a foot or two, show him a soft toy and toss it to him. Don’t go for a catch that requires a Superman leap into the air. The idea is to have him actually catch it!

Put him in a Sit-Stay and let him watch you hide a toy under the edge of a nearby chair. Keep him on a stay for a moment more, perhaps as you wonder out loud “Where is Teddy?” Then give him the release and cue, “Okay - find Teddy!” If he hasn’t figured out what to do, help him look for it, but let him “find” it.

Going back to the “as” routine, you can teach your puppy almost any trick that he can perform by himself simply by giving that action a one-word command. (Don’t worry if it’s actually two words.) Dogs like to roll over onto their backs and wriggle, especially on a nice thick rug! Turn this back-scratching into a trick by catching Sparky as he begins and saying, “Sparky, roll
over. Good boy!”

As your puppy grows up, he’ll understand more and more of your language and you’ll be able to use phrases that have great impact as tricks. For example, instead of saying “roll over,” say, “Sparky, can you do your rollover exercises?” to bring on a wriggling, leg-flailing routine that is worthy of applause. For starters, keep it simple.

When Sparky has reached the stage of being able to hold a steady Sit-Stay, you can add another trick. Balance a small dog biscuit on top of his nose as you say, “On trust.” (You may have to hold his head steady the first few times.) When he has held it for a second or two, give him the release signal (”Okay” or “Take it”) as you gently but quickly lift his chin up,
which will toss the biscuit into the air so he can catch the biscuit as it falls.

Kids and puppies love to play hide-and-seek, but anyone can get in on the game. Dogs seek by scent, so at least in the beginning crouch down to be nearer the pup’s level. Put Sparky in a Sit-Stay, let him see you hide (behind a chair or a door), crouch down and then call out “Okay!” Be sure he finds you even if it means you have to call out his name a couple of times. Make a big deal of it when he does - and then repeat the game. Don’t make it any more difficult until he can find you instantly at the first level.

Reward him occasionally with a small treat, but make finding you the most exciting part of the game, which means you will progress slowly from hiding where he can at least partially see you, to hiding in another room and eventually the back of a clothes closet where your scent will be masked. He won’t play if it isn’t fun, so be sure he does find you every time.

Shaking hands is an old favorite and easy to teach - touch the toes and most pups will raise that paw. Lift it gently and say, “Shake hands” (or “Give me a paw”) as he does. When that much has been mastered, you can turn it into a paw raised higher, and without shaking it,
say, “Wave goodbye!” But that’s for later; a polite puppy handshake is fine for now. The opposite of “Off for jumping up is two paws raised in a jump-up greeting, only on a command of “High five!”

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The fun of bringing a new puppy home and introducing him to his new family is a very special experience. He will, of course, become a well-mannered dog, staying quietly at our side, eager to follow our every command. Well, it is a long road from the cuddly puppy to the mature dog, but with some effort and understanding it can be traveled successfully. It all begins with day one in the new home.

The first few days a puppy is in his new home can be trying for both the puppy and the new owner because both are trying to adjust to a new situation. After all, the puppy finds he has been suddenly taken from his den and litter mates and is expected to immediately accept a new, foreign way of life. However, with patience and a sense of humor on the part of the new owner, the first few days can be accomplished with good feelings on both sides.

Breeders and behaviorists generally agree that seven weeks of age (forty-nine days) is the ideal age for a puppy to go to his new home, with six to eight weeks being the most desirable age range. The six- to eight-week old puppy still needs a lot of rest and will take morning and afternoon naps. For the first day or two, however, he might be very excited and spend much of the day in motion, checking out his new home. As long as he is not hurting himself or anything else in the environment, let him investigate wherever and whatever takes his fancy.

If the puppy is eight weeks old when he first comes home, be very patient with him. This is the fear period and sharp noises or harsh treatment will leave him with fear which may take months to overcome. Let him take his time getting acquainted with everything and do not take him to places where he will be subjected to loud and frightening sounds or activities. If possible, trips to the veterinarian should be arranged either before or after the eighth week.

If the puppy is ten to twelve weeks old when you first bring him home, he will be more rambunctious, especially if he is one of the larger breeds, and he will sleep considerably less during the day. However, he is at an age where you can get his attention quite easily and where he will want to please you and stay close to you.

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If your puppy is younger than 16 weeks and are constantly nipping, it’s normal behavior - young puppies mouth a lot. They mouth when playing; they also mouth to communicate their needs. If your puppy starts mouthing, ask yourself these questions: Is he hungry or thirsty? Does he need to eliminate? Is he sleepy? Does he need to play? Remember, puppies nip when they feel needy (just like a baby cries). If your puppy does not let up, ask yourself if he wants something, like an outing, exercise, or a drink. The following things can help you control mouthing and nipping:

1. If your puppy does not need anything and he still will not quit, crate or isolate him with a favorite bone. Do not scold your puppy as you isolate her. Calmly place the puppy in her area.
2. Whenever your puppy licks you, say “Kisses” and praise her warmly. Encourage licking by slathering your hands with a frozen stick of butter.
3. Withhold your attention when your puppy nips softly. Keep your hand still; withdrawing your hand is an invitation to play and nip harder.
4. If your puppy starts biting down hard, turn quickly, say “Ep, Ep!” and glare into her eyes for two seconds; then go back to your normal routine. If she persists, try spritzing yourself with Bitter Apple or affix a leash onto your puppy so that you can tug the lead sharply to the side. If
necessary, place her in a quiet area to cool off.

If you have a puppy who still nips when he is older than 16 weeks, you need to start curbing it now. Although nipping will continue, you need to make clear that it is unacceptable. Following are a few tips to help you:

1. Stop all challenge games. These games include wrestling, tug-of-war, chasing your dog around, and teasing. When you engage in these types of activities, you’re sending the wrong message. These games teach dogs to clamp down hard on any object - a leash, the laundry, your shirt, or even your skin - and challenge.
2. Discourage all nipping, whether it’s a bite on your arm or a nibble on your finger. Teeth do not belong on human skin, period.
3. Purchase a few weapons to use in defense, such as Mouth Spray, Bitter Apple spray, or a long-distance squirt gun. Never stare at your pup while you spritz or spray her; doing so turns an unpleasant result into a confrontational interaction.
4. Leave a leash on your puppy so you have something to direct her with and can avoid physical confrontation. If your dog’s not wearing the Teaching Lead, place a short lead onto her buckle collar.
5. If your puppy begins to mouth, turn to him, use a lead or collar to snap her head from your body, or spritz the region he is nipping with a spray. Do not glare at him; otherwise, he will perceive your actions as confrontational play.
6. If he continues to nip, ask yourself these questions: Do I look convincing? Am I snapping or pulling? (Pulling encourages play.) Is my dog taking me seriously? You may need more training before you earn his respect.

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On your puppy’s first day home, give him a complete tour around the house on a loose leash. This is the pup’s first introduction to whatever limitations you want to put on his future access to your possessions - your furniture, golf clubs, books, the kids’ toy shelves, etc.

This is not the right time for “no.” (The puppy might begin to think that “no” is his name!) Instead, use a guttural “Yack!” combined with a very slight tug-and-release of the leash as he sniffs to warn him away from untouchables. He’s new at this, but just saying, “Puppy!” in a happy voice may be enough to get him to look at you - “Good dog.” Back to happy chatter as you move on.

All you are doing is letting him know by means of prevention (a growl sound he understands) what things he will have to avoid in the future. Let him sniff first because he’ll remember the objects more by scent than by sight. He looks up at you and he is praised. Think of it this way: “No!” means “Don’t do that!” whereas “Yack!” means “Don’t even think of doing it!” Chit-chat is natural and pleasurable to both of you; but in the beginning the puppy will only pick up on his name because everyone uses it in connection with things he finds pleasurable - play, food or praise. If you use the word “din-din” many times while fixing his meals, that word will stand out in the midst of a five minute speech on nutrition as a clue to the observant pup that he is about to eat. The human-canine teaching language is based on short, simple words that are consistently applied to specific actions.

This first guided tour teaches your puppy the layout of his new home, what it looks like, smells like, even feels like (rugs, carpets, tile, wood) and that some things are off limits even to adorable puppies. There is one more important lesson he is learning from this adventure: that you are his new Leader, the He or She-Who-Must-Be-Obeyed. If you do not take on this role, the puppy will. Somebody’s got to do it, and he’ll fill the vacancy immediately! You may be familiar with the saying, “Lead, follow or get out of my way.” Every dog is born knowing it and continues to live by it!

Once the house tour is over, now it’s down to specifics. Show Sparky where his water bowl will always be. Let him investigate his crate. Then take him outside (still on leash) to the exact area where you want him to eliminate. Stand there until he does. (Patience. He’s new at this.) Praise quietly as he goes, after which you can make the same kind of tour outside, with warnings about flower or vegetable beds, bushes or plants. Or you may live in a city and by law (and responsible dog ownership) must curb Sparky. Go to the quietest no-parking spot you can find. If you remain on the sidewalk, he will naturally want to join you, so stand down in the street with him. It will take time, plus your casual, confident attitude, to get him used to the noise, the confusion and the speed and size of trucks and taxis. No outside walking tour at this time. Wait until his immunizations are complete, by which time he will also be more accepting of city life.

Note: If the original trip home from where you picked up Sparky took more than an hour, reverse the two “tours” to let the pup eliminate first.

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